Yelapa: A Relaxing & Adventurous Hidden Oasis
An alternative to Sayulita.
This past spring my friend Maddy and I caught a wild hair to go somewhere south. All our friends had been jet setting off to Costa Rica and Mexico, and we decided it was our turn. From previous word of mouth experiences, we had heard all about Sayulita and how enticing it was, so we made our choice and booked our flight into Puerto Vallarta. We were craving delicious tacos, sunshine and ocean time, but the more we researched the more we found ourselves disappointed. With the rumors of rampant Noro virus, the water being contaminated from the overuse of infrastructure, and the crowds, we continued to regret our choice in location. We had already booked our flights and accommodation, but something didn’t feel right.
Until we heard about, Yelapa.
A place that trickled down through our friend group.
“You must go” my friend Shiva told me. “It changed my life.”
The name "Yelapa" is an indigenous word that means "where two rivers meet the sea.” And you can bet, it’s in a bay just west of Puerto Vallarta, where two rivers meet the Pacific.
Thankfully Yelapa wasn’t much further south than Sayulita. We were lucky enough to keep our same flights, and it was early enough to rebook our accommodations.
A simpler way of living. Yelapa is a town of 1500 people, accessible only by water taxi from Puerto Vallarta (though I’ve heard there are two tracks that the locals use to access the main roads, mind you they ride deep into the jungle.) Think island vibes, but still on the mainland. There’s no hospital, no roads with cars on them, and the locals walk around barefoot. Multiple water taxis run in and out several times a day, so you still have your modern accommodations, while simultaneously feeling disconnected from the rest of the world.
A popular day trip from Puerto Vallarta, instead, we opted to spend an entire week in Yelapa. You may think, why spend a whole week in a place that’s rated for a day trip? Sounds silly, but I couldn’t be happier with our decision.
My friend Maddy and I left the cozy quaint mountain biking hub of Salida, Colorado in search of a more disconnected adventure. Being based in a county that already has less than 25,000 people in it, Yelapa sounded relaxing to us. We already aren’t city people, so the less the crowds, the better.
Getting there was your classic saying, “planes, trains and automobiles.” A 2.5 hour drive to Denver, a night spent at a dear friends, Uber to the RTD, RTD to DIA, a plane from DIA to LAX, and then a plane from LAX to PVR.
Upon arriving in Puerto Vallarta we were relieved to be done with the sky part of our journey. As we left the terminal we exchanged our cash at the currency exchange desk. Where we were headed there was little to no places that would take cards, so pesos were a must. Yes the exchange rates were a bit higher in the airport, but it was worth it to us to streamline our agenda. After exchanging our funds, we left the terminal and entered the main area of the airport. We were bombarded with Uber requests and people approaching us for taxis, etc. I had people raising their voice in my face. We opted for the simple approach of “no thank you” and carried on to baggage claim.
Near the sliding doors that exit to the sidewalk in the baggage claim area is where the taxis and Ubers are. Before walking outside, we saw a Taxi window on our right. THIS is where we were advised to purchase our ticket to the Los Muertos pier, where we’d then be hitching a water taxi to Yelapa. In total transparency knowing where to get a land taxi, and actually getting on, was the hardest part of the travel journey. Upon paying for our taxi at the window, we were given a slip and told to head outside to find the folks with the striped shirts, handed them our ticket and they called us a taxi.
30 minutes later we found ourselves in Downtown Puerto Vallarta, passing the cruise ships on our way in. We were thrilled to have made it to Mexico, the sandy beaches, warm weather, and shining sun were all as predicted.
Our next objective was to secure our water taxi to Yelapa. When you get dropped off by the land taxi, you’ll see the massive spiral shaped structure ahead of you, the Los Muertos pier. As instructed from our friends, we were told to head to the END of the pier to buy our water taxi ticket to Yelapa. Similar to our land taxi situation, on our walk to the end of the pier, we were approached by MANY people trying to sell us tickets. We simply said, “no thank you,” headed to the end of the pier, and purchased a round-trip ticket for 500 pesos.
The bulk of the travel was over. We did it. Now we had a hour and half to kill before our 5 o’clock departure from the pier. We decided to grab a bite to eat at Langostinos Restaurant & Bar. We weren’t particularly in the mood to investigate the best place to eat, as we were exhausted. But for our first meal in Mexico, we were beyond satisfied.
Pleased, and at peace.
There’s something about leaving, leaving your life. I’m not saying endless travel isn’t an option, I live that life too. Though having been parked in a friends driveway the last 7 months, (as I have been on and off the road for 5 years) travel to places you have yet to explore feels different, it forces you back into your senses, back into reality. Decision making and presence become paramount. I believe we really all are trying to find our way back to the present moment. I think that’s what our heart calls too. Presence places us back into a flow state, and theres nothing better than that.
What’s fascinating is that all you have to do is train yourself on how to be. The reality and experience that this matrix is, a truth into of itself to be explored. A topic for another time.
ANYWAY. Pleased and at peace we were.
After eating we sat at the end of the pier to wait for our water taxi. A spotted string ray made its presence know, while google had its own interpretations as to what to say about its meaning, I took it as a welcoming sign.
On the boat we went, about 15 of us, maybe more. The ride to Yelapa followed the south coastline of the Bahía de Banderas, or Bay of Flags. We were beginning to feel the disconnect. As we moved farther away from Puerto Vallarta, we started to feel more comfortable. It was just us and the water. The coastline residences and hotels started to dissipate. In this moment, we knew we made the right choice. Away from the chaos was our goal.
Round the bend we came, and there she was, Yelapa (hands cross and slowly wave to either side in dramatization of name.)
Maddy and I looked at each other and started to geek (show extreme excitement, by touching hands, bouncing up and down in our seats, while simultaneously displaying sights of shit eating grins and vocal giggles.)
Depending on where your accommodation is, there are 3 spots that the water taxi drops in Yelapa, one at Muelle de Yelapa (far East side of the bay), another at Playa Yelapa (the classic tourist day spot, middle of the bay), and the last stop being at the west end of the bay, which places you in the main part of town.
*EXCITEMENT* ahhh we were so pleased. So happy, thrilled!
As we entered the cove off the main bay, the boat took us round the eastern shoreline, before cutting across to our stop at the main dock. It gave us a grand entrance, and grand view to where we were to spend the next 7 days. You could clearly see where the main tourist beach / restaurants were vs. the main part of town that the locals inhabit. The duality and contrast in places like this shines apparent. I like to think of myself as an equal opportunist, so I was excited to explore it all.
Now let’s get into the information you’re really here for.
THE BASICS:
BEST TIME TO VISIT:
November - April. We were there in April, so the jungle was dying already a bit, earlier would be better.
ACCOMIDATION:
We found our accommodation at Casa Yolanda right in the heart of downtown Yelapa. Staying here was the perfect home base for our week in Yelapa. It was clean, close to markets and all the restaurants. Having the enclosed bedrooms with AC units and locked doors was ideal for sleeping in peace, the rest of the unit was open air with STUNNING views. We loved being in the middle of town to soak in the culture and be in the happenings. If you decided to stay here, it can be loud on Fri / Sat nights, just bring ear plugs and you'll be good. There is hot water on premise, wifi worked fabulously, and there was even some snorkel gear in the closet for use. Also, a small safe for your belongings. Highly recommend. Be prepared for 3 flights of the stairs though, being mountain people we loved the extra workout!
COST BREAKDOWN:
Our expenses came to about $1500 USD a person. Our round trip flight out of Denver cost $360, the Airbnb totaled $830 (split two ways $415 a person) and I converted $700 USD to pesos for everything else in between; including food, taxis and side quests.
ITINERARY AND THINGS TO DO:
So we made it to Yelapa, what next?
There wasn’t a plan. Our plan was as far to the extent of flight and accommodation. The week we had in front of us, was left open. For I believe that’s how the magic can then happen. Make yourself available and the universe will pleasantly surprise you.
Our first night was spent having dinner at Los Abuelos. Hands down the restaurant with the best vibes and food! After that, early to bed we were.
THE CLASSIC TOURIST DAY:
Day two was spent on activities that I would call, “lay of the land” type stuff. This would be the “day trip” you would have, if you decided to charter over from Puerto Vallarta for a few hours. When looking at a map of Yelapa, the most southern east coast, is the pristine beaches you dream of, “Playa Yelapa;” manicured, clean and beach cabana chairs galore. They’re a multitude of beachside restaurants to choose from, serving all your desired bevy and Mexican faire of choice. After another night of dinner at Los Abuelos (yes it was that good we had to eat there twice.) We headed off to The Sanctuary for live music under the jungle stars!
“LIKE A LOCAL” KIND OF DAY:
Day three encompassed getting to know town more like a local. We started the day with BUTI yoga at YogaLove Yelapa. Maddy got her Sunday Birria fix and after we stopped for coffee at Cafe Pacifico. We spent the day on the locals beach, Playa Isabel. Where we snorkeled with jellyfish, pufferfish, Dorys and more! Dinner was at Mariscos El Pescador coming in with the best fish tacos of the trip! But the real kicker was the Tres Leches Cake we had at Pollo Bollo for dessert, I still to this day dream of it. I’m not kidding, I mentioned it just last week.
JUNGLE WATERFALL HIKE DAY:
Day four was the most special day, being that it was my 33rd birthday. In the morning from our open air home oasis I was greeted by a gecko and a blue heron sitting on the rooftop adjacent ours. Breakfast was at Gloria’s for a proper Huevos Rancheros. Then off we were to the jungle waterfall! The trip was just around 6 miles out and back. There is another waterfall right “in town” so we sure to follow the track from town here. Not to say the waterfall in town isn’t worth it, but we were on the hunt for a larger adventure. Again, be sure to have the track downloaded as there is no cell service. You will cross the river twice, look for the signs, they’re there just hand painted, and generally tacked to a tree. A bit of scrambling is required to get down to the falls, once you arrive be sure to mingle with the locals and tourists alike. On the jaunt back you can grab some food at The Jungle Garden to quench the thirst and hunger from the days escapade.
THE GRAND FINALE, THE MARIETTA ENDEAVOR:
Day five and seven were spent more “like a local,” with lots of beach hang time and more delicious food. The real kicker and adrenaline fueled part of the trip came on day six when we took a charter out to The Marietas Islands.
I’d say this was the arch of the trip.
Now let me say, our tour guide had the best of intentions, as they all do. We met our guide day one outside the pier where we first set foot into Yelapa. He invited us on the tour, we planned the trip with a friend of a friend in town, all seemed swell and it lined up well, off we were
With the sun shining and the wind whipping our hair, the ride over was majestically freightening. With the islands only about a 45 minute boat ride over from Yelapa, the land started to disappear from view and it was us and the ocean, the Pacific. Skirting the line of the open ocean and the start of the Bay of Flags, we took our straight shot out to the islands. I wasn’t entirely sure what we were getting into. Beyond the boat ride, and knowing that we’d arrive at some islands I had no idea what was to come next.
Upon making it across the bay, we were instructed to place our life jackets on around our waists, handed helmets from the Park Service and then invited to jump into the open ocean to swim through an arch cave into the pristine, sought after “hidden beach” cenote that we all have dreamed of.
I think on most days, this wouldn’t be an issue, but today, today the waves were… big. Hindsight, I should have never jumped out of the boat. Getting in was easy, as we were pushed in by the waves, still slightly nerve racking as our heads broached a foot or two from the top of the cave, I figured I’d worry about getting out after soaking in the moment.
The hidden beach only allows for around 20 minutes of hang time before the venture out. It was magical, just as you’d expect, yet I couldn’t shake the feeling of what was to come next.
The way out, was terrifying.
Like picking a line when skiing, I braced myself to commit.
Now I know little to nothing of the ocean, I grew up with freshwater oceans, sure, but the REAL ocean, the one they write legends about, that. I don’t know much about. I was about to learn the power of surrender if a way I hadn’t known before.
Maddy asked our guide, “are you scared?”
A response of, “yes, I am” left us with a pit in our stomach.
Not reassuring for the moment.
Peering out at a cave entrance that normally allows for a 6 foot gap, we were watching the waves continually close that gap, over and over and over again.
It was one of those moments where you kind of just had to trust.
We waited for the third wave to come in, and then we swam to the opening, as hard and as fast as we could. Optimistic that we’d clear the cave before the next set of waves….
Oh my, were we wrong.
On the way in we were a foot or two from hitting our heads on the top of the cave, on the way out it was inches.
In the dead middle of the cave, we got hit with a large wave, kicking, swimming as hard as we could, several of us linked together, with our guide in front, we either were holding onto each other by with one arm each linked, or several of us were holding one arm to a ring buoy, I can’t remember. It all seems like a blur.
Another wave pulls up, I remember pushing off the side of the cave, to get myself further away from the wall.
And finally the biggest wave yet.
There was nothing to do but surrender. In that moment I took a large breath of air, pulled in my extremities in and hoped for the best. I didn’t feel a large knock, but was fully submerged by the wave, she passed.
Finally, a moment to move without the Pacific fighting us, we swam as aggressively as possible out. Exhausted, we made it out of the cave and past the break, we were in the clear.
Extreme adrenaline and laughter rocked me. It was one of those moments where you were glad it was over, but not sure if you were happy that you did it? High risk, the reward was swell, however if given the choice, I would have come back another day, when I could really relax and take it all in, versus pushing the edge. We really were in Mexico bb, no rules, it felt like a Wild West moment, if the Wild West could be in a cove off the Pacific.
At the same time though, I was grateful for the experience. I had been struggling surpassing some mental fortitudes, and in that moment, where my life flashed before my eyes, it was as if none of it mattered.
Maybe the medicine of being pushed to the edge was needed to remind me of the gift that each moment possesses…
Either way, back on the boat, the tour continued…
Circling around the islands, we found another spot to jump off and swim to shore, this time - we were still playing through the waves on the way to the island, but without the life threatening edge. Not another soul in sight, we laid in the sand, sang songs of Panchamama and basked in awe of the the Pacific and all her glory.
Moments like this are what make life feel still. Travel does that to you, new experiences, new places and new people do that to you. They bring you back into the moment, and that’s all that’s really real anyways.
After some time on the beach the last part of our tour was spent snorkeling around the island, with the waves still abound it made for a more than cloudy experience underwater, but we were able to catch glimpses of large schools of fish, and even saw a sea turtle! Truly a magical experience.
Before the ride back across the bay our guides delighted us by showering our taste buds with cervezas and ceviche. Laughing, sun baked and thrill-seeked, we began our journey back more than satisfied.
We set out to be somewhere where we could relax and find a bit of adventure. Yelapa did just that for us. Without having to rent a car, we were able to walk everywhere, experience wonderful food, play in the water, experience the sea creatures, scare ourselves a bit and welcome in a new year ahead (for myself at least.)
If you find yourself down south, I invite you to take the time to explore Yelapa and disconnect to reconnect, to the magic of the present moment.
